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FAQ

Answers to our most frequently asked questions!

Delivery

When you have completed your purchase, you will receive an email with all the information you need about your order. In this order confirmation you will find your order number and other information about your order and payment. If you have any further questions about your order, contact hi@nordeye.eu and we can help you!

Haven’t received your order confirmation? This could be due to two different reasons: either you accidentally entered the wrong email address. Contact us at hi@nordeye.eu and we will help you get your order confirmation. The second possibility is that the order did not go through. In that case, contact us so we can remove your order and you won’t end up with duplicate orders.

If you haven’t received your order, it might be because you accidentally entered incorrect contact information when placing the order. We ask you to contact us here for assistance with your order, and we will be happy to help you.

It depends a bit on the delivery method you chose when you placed your order. If you selected delivery to a pickup point, you will receive information about your package as soon as it arrives at the designated pickup point. When you place the order, you provide your phone number or email and choose the pickup point that suits you best, making it easy for you to get all the information you need about your order.

There are several different options for how your package is shipped. In most cases, your package is sent to a postal agent and pickup point. There is also the option to have your items delivered to your door, which involves a different shipping cost. You make your delivery choices when you place your order.

Depending on how you choose to have your order delivered, the shipping cost can vary. If you choose to pick up your order at a pickup point, the shipping cost is 79 SEK. If you choose to have your package delivered to your door, the shipping cost is 139 SEK.

If you place your order before 11:00 AM on a business day, we usually ship your order the same day (if all the items you ordered are in stock). If the order is placed after 11:00 AM, we will ship it to you the next business day. This means, for products which are stock that you will normally receive your items within 1-7 business days. For non-stock items, once your order has been confirmed, our team will be in contact with details of delivery times for your specific order. Read more about shipping and delivery here.

Returns

Contact us via email at hi@nordeye.eu and provide the following information.

• Reason for return (if product is damaged/faulty, please note this here)

• Your name and order number

• If you wish to return the product(s) or exchange to another product

You will receive instructions for the return, and we will send you the necessary forms and shipping labels.

We inspect all items before shipping your order. However, if you receive a damaged item, please contact us as soon as possible (within 7 days) via email.

 

If you paid with a card, the amount will be refunded to the card used for the purchase.

If you used an invoice as the payment method, you can go into Klarna and pause the invoice until your return has been processed by us. Once we have received your return, an updated version with the remaining amount of the invoice will be sent to the email you provided at the time of purchase. Have you already paid your invoice? Then you will receive an email from Klarna with refund details.

Read more about payments with Klarna here.

Labels and Terminology

Lumen essentially means brightness, that is, the total amount of light emitted from the light source in all directions. A regular light bulb has around 500 lumens, while a driving light has around 5000 lumens.

Unlike lumens, the LUX value indicates the brightness within a specified area. With a so-called lux meter, 1 lux is measured in relation to the distance from the light source where 1m² is evenly illuminated to a brightness of 1 lumen.

WATT (W) – POWER

Watt is a measure of how much energy the light source consumes, that is, its power. Nowadays, LED lamps are primarily used, which consume significantly less energy than traditional light sources and therefore have a lower wattage rating.

AMPERE (A) – CURRENT

Electrical charges that move are called current and are measured in Amperes. For these charges to start moving, voltage – volts – is needed.

VOLT (V) – VOLTAGE

Voltage is needed for electrical charges (A) to start moving and generate current, which in turn makes a lamp light up. Be sure to use 12 V and 24 V lamps for vehicles and devices intended for the respective voltage. A 12 V lamp risks breaking if used with 24 V, and a 24 V lamp is not strong enough at 12 V.

KELVIN (K) – COLOR TEMPERATURE

You have probably heard of, and maybe even experienced, light being cold or warm. There is always a certain degree of warmth and coolness in light. This is called color temperature and is measured in Kelvin (K). Light with a high K value is perceived as cold – almost blue, while a low K value is perceived as warm and yellowish. Which K value is best for vehicle lighting is, of course, a matter of preference, but it is often said that 5000 K is optimal.

With its low power consumption, long lifespan, and high operational reliability, the LED lamp has quickly become the obvious choice for many when it comes to lighting. These aspects also make the lamp a good environmental choice. The technology provides a natural color temperature, which is easier on the eyes and thus offers a safer and more comfortable working environment and driving experience. LED lamps are also very resistant to vibrations and are virtually maintenance-free. The lamp lights up quickly and can handle large temperature differences.

The halogen lamp consists of traditional incandescent technology where the supply of electrical energy causes it to glow, and when the lamp is filled with halogen, the temperature rises, making the lamp emit a lot of light. The halogen lamp is appreciated for its warm and pleasant light but is a poorer choice from an environmental perspective as it has a relatively short lifespan compared to Xenon and LED.

Xenonlampan har en glaskolv som är fylld med Xenongas, denna ger en elektrisk urladdning som i sin tur gör att lampan avger ljus. Xenonlampans sken är kallare och mer verklighetstroget än exempelvis halogenlampan. Jämfört med halogen är xenon även mindre energikrävande, alstrar mindre värme samt har bättre ljusflöde och längre livslängd.

Sometimes you come across the terms theoretical and actual lumens. But what is the difference? Theoretical lumens is a calculated measure; you simply add up the brightness of each individual diode and calculate how much light the lamp emits in theory. Actual lumens, on the other hand, is measured by how much light is emitted in practice, making it a more accurate measure. The difference between these measures is due to the fact that the electronics in the diodes and the lamp cause a lot of light to be lost when calculating the measure.

In order for lighting to last longer and not be damaged by overheating, some lamps are equipped with a thermal control system that regulates the power supply to protect the lamp.

Work lights must be able to withstand a lot. One of these things is that they need to endure long and continuous vibration without being damaged. To measure the lamp’s resistance, some manufacturers subject the work lights to a vibration test where the lamp is exposed to mechanical vibration for an extended period.

A shock test focuses on measuring a work light’s resistance to short but strong impacts or blows. The higher the G-value of the lamp, the more resistant it is to short, strong impulses.

Today’s vehicles are packed with technical devices. Most modern vehicles have a Canbus system that functions as a communication hub, responsible for managing communication between all technical devices and alerting you as the driver if any of these systems stop working.

Auxiliary lighting often has a marking that indicates the light pattern of the lamp. The light pattern refers to the shape of the area illuminated by the light beam, viewed from above. The most common light patterns are pencil, flood, and combo. Pencil shines far and straight ahead, flood does not shine as far and is concentrated on the area directly in front and to the sides of the light source. Combo, as the name suggests, is a combination of pencil and flood, where the beam shines far and straight ahead in the middle and close to the vehicle on the sides. By combining several round auxiliary lights with different light patterns, you can create a light pattern that suits your preference.

Questions on Lighting

Which driving lights are the best is a matter of taste and also depends on the area of use. At Nordeye, we offer a wide range of driving lights with different characteristics. Take a look at our brand and product descriptions to get an idea of what you need. Start by identifying your area of use and how you want the light to behave. Do you need a driving light with a long range, or do you need more intensely focused lighting on a specific area? We have something for everyone.

Work lights are often used on vehicles operating in tough environments such as forests, mines, and construction sites. It is not uncommon to work in darkness or poor lighting conditions. To maintain the best possible working environment, it is important to have good work lights on the vehicle. This is not only so the driver can see well but also as a safety measure to minimize the risk of accidents on the job site.

Just like with any other equipment, your needs determine which work light suits you best. What type of vehicle do you have? What work environment are you usually in? Do you need to illuminate a large area or just the area closest to the vehicle? Nordeye offers a wide range of lighting where you are guaranteed to find something that suits you and your needs.

Square, rectangular, round, or oval? Work lights come in many different shapes. Besides the aesthetic aspect, the shape of the work lights also has a functional significance since the space where the light is to be mounted is often limited. Sometimes there is no possibility to mount, for example, a round work light, so you have to choose a square one. But don’t worry – the shape does not affect the brightness, so in terms of light quality, all shapes can be equally good.

12V and 24V refer to the input voltage for the lighting. The difference between the designations is that the transformer and the lamp have different resistances. Keep in mind that a 12V lamp should be used with 12V, and it can burn out if connected to 24V. A 24V lamp should be used with 24V, and its brightness is not sufficient at 12V.

It depends on who you ask! It can be a bit confusing because strobe lights are a form of warning light. When we at Nordeye talk about strobe lights, we refer to a smaller light that is mounted on the side of the vehicle and flashes either yellow or white. When we talk about warning lights, we refer to the classic round light or bar that is mounted on the vehicle’s roof or similar and flashes yellow.

No. Strobe lights are a form of warning light intended to alert the surroundings about something. On regular passenger cars, you are never allowed to install yellow flashing lights, and never lights on the sides of the car. However, on your private passenger car, you are allowed to mount white strobe lights at the rear that activate when you reverse. Yellow or white strobe lights on the sides or front are only permitted on work vehicles, trucks, vans, and similar vehicles.

There is no right or wrong here; what one prefers is highly personal. Some people think it looks better with several round driving lights in a row, while others prefer a discreet LED bar. Functionally, there are a few differences between them. With round driving lights, you often get more and stronger light if that is what you are looking for. Additionally, you can combine lights with different beam patterns to create a light beam tailored to your needs. The LED bar, on the other hand, can be perceived as easier to mount, blends into the front of the car in a discreet way, and also does not interfere with the car’s built-in sensors to the same extent because it simply takes up less space than round driving lights.

We highly recommend that you to take a look at the markings on the driving lights before deciding which lighting to purchase. Driving lights should withstand both cold and heat, dust and precipitation, and also be compatible with your vehicle’s electronics. Therefore, make sure your lighting has markings that ensure it meets your specific requirements and preferences. The IP rating indicates how dust and water-resistant the lamp is, EMC is a marking that minimizes the risk of encountering interference and operational issues with the lamp connected. A RoHS marking means that the use of certain hazardous heavy metals and flame retardants has been limited or prohibited in the product. For electronic equipment to be sold on the Swedish market, it must be CE marked. This marking guarantees that the product meets basic requirements regarding health, safety, functionality, and the environment.

Perhaps you have come across the term reference number in lighting contexts? The reference number is a value given to driving lights and high beams, and according to ECE regulations, the sum of these values must not exceed 100. The higher the value, the stronger the light. On all E-approved lamps, the reference number is indicated on the lamp’s glass. According to European Union laws, the total sum of the reference numbers for all high beams on a vehicle must not exceed 100. This means that when adding additional driving lights, you must ensure that the combined reference number of your vehicle’s high beams does not surpass this limit.

The most common beam patterns for round driving lights are Spot, Flood, and Combo. With the Spot beam pattern – also known as Pencil – the light beam is centered far and straight ahead. Flood does not extend nearly as far forward, but the light spreads out to each side, giving you a wider light field with a focus closer to the vehicle. Combo, as the name suggests, is a combination of Spot and Flood, where the beam is longest in the middle and wider on the sides. Often, three or more round driving lights are mounted on the vehicle, and it is common to choose a Spot light in the middle and two Flood lights on either side

“With this installation guide, we hope to inspire and help you easily and safely install your driving lights. Start by ensuring you have the correct lighting, mount, and relay wiring kit. At Nordeye, we have a wide range of products that are guaranteed to meet your needs.

The instructions below exemplify the installation of our driving light wiring harness connected to the vehicle’s electrical system.

  1. REMOVE THE LICENSE PLATE

Start by removing both the license plate and the plastic plate by loosening the screws attached to the bumper. The reason for removing these is to facilitate the process of mounting the bracket. In cases where a light bar is to be installed on top of the license plate, a license plate holder is often relevant. This is also a reason to remove the license plate and plastic plate.

  1. MOUNT THE BRACKET

Ensure that the driving light bracket fits. If you encounter problems, you can adapt it by drilling new holes and shaping the bracket to fit the bumper by bending it slightly to match the bumper’s shape. This will make the installation easier in the following steps. Then screw the driving light bracket in place. Remember to use extra supporting screws to ensure it is securely fastened. You can now also reattach the plastic and license plates.

  1. MOUNT THE DRIVING LIGHTS OR LIGHT BAR

Mount the driving lights or light bar on the bracket using the screws and nuts provided. A tip is to tighten the screws gradually as they may need to be adjusted later.

  1. ROUTE THE DRIVING LIGHT CABLES THROUGH THE GRILLE

In this step, prepare to connect the power to your driving lights. Usually, you should be able to route the cables through the grille without any problems, but this can vary from vehicle to vehicle. If problems arise, it is usually because the wires are too short, and you may need to splice the wire.

  1. SPLICE THE WIRE

Start by cutting the cable so that the red wire is slightly longer than the black one. Then cut the other cable in the opposite way. Cut the positive and negative cables so that the splice is offset. Finally, place the splice in a cable channel to avoid short circuits since the splices are offset.

  1. CONNECT THE POWER

Start by removing the fuse in the fuse holder on the positive cable. Once you have connected the power, reinsert the fuse. The fuse protects against overload and incorrectly connected driving lights, so you will quickly notice if something is wrong.

Now connect the power to your driving light by connecting the wiring harness’s negative source to the vehicle’s negative terminal. If there is no junction box, you can connect the negative terminal to the vehicle’s chassis or ground cable. Connect the wiring harness’s positive source to the positive terminal in the vehicle’s junction box or battery. Remember to be careful to avoid getting a shock during the process. If you want to connect the driving light to the vehicle’s high beam function, do this with the relay wiring kit’s high beam cable. Connect the various cables with a power tap, which usually comes with the relay wiring kit. The red cable is the positive terminal and is usually connected to the vehicle’s battery. The black cable is the negative terminal and is connected to the vehicle’s junction box or ground cable. The blue cable is connected to the high beam function.

  1. TEST YOUR DRIVING LIGHTS

Finish by testing the driving lights to ensure they work and adjust them to your preference.

  1. DRIVE SAFELY!

Position lights are built into all motor vehicles, with white lights at the front and red lights at the rear. It is common for larger vehicles to install additional position lights to clearly indicate their position on the road. These lights are often mounted so that they protrude slightly from the sides of the vehicle.

These terms are often used synonymously, but there are clear differences. The position light is used on larger vehicles to indicate their width to other road users both in front and behind the vehicle. The position light is therefore mounted so that it protrudes on either side of the vehicle. The position light must shine white forward and red backward to be approved. The side marker light, on the other hand, is intended to show the vehicle’s position when viewed from the side. The side marker light must be orange to be approved.

With an E-marking, you ensure that the lamp is approved for use within the EU. To know what the lamp is approved for, you need to look at the ECE marking. ECE R91, for example, means that the lamp is approved for use as a side marker light.

To be allowed to use orange warning lights, you must be operating a vehicle that needs to warn other road users of obstacles or other potential dangers, such as road work, construction sites, towing, slow-moving vehicles, or transporting wide loads. Blue warning lights may only be used by emergency vehicles.

No. However, if you are driving with a trailer and transporting something that protrudes a bit at the back or if you need to drive extra slowly, you are allowed to have a temporary red warning light at the back of the trailer. If you need to mark the sides, these lights should be orange. Also, mark any load that protrudes forward or backward with a colorful flag.

For your warning light to be approved, it must be E-marked with ECE R65 Class 1. The lighting must also be installed so that it is visible at a height of 1.2 meters and can be perceived from all directions.

This means that the warning light has a function that allows it to be dimmed when used in the dark, so it does not shine as brightly and risk blinding the surroundings.

Payment

Yes – We accept both VISA and MaseterCard.

You can pay by invoice by selecting it as the payment option when you place your order. You can choose between two different options: either you will receive the invoice sent to your email address, or you can choose to have it on your Klarna account.

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